You may think of the Pawn Stars simpleton first, but, before long, when you hear of Chumley’s, you’ll start dreaming of succulent burgers.
Chumley’s, named after the owners’ recently deceased golden doodle and not the Chumlee of History channel fame, is one of the newest culinary additions to Padanaram, adding oomph to its expanding epicurean scene, sitting less than a block from the new Farm and Coast Market, Little Moss, Black Bass and Sail Loft.
In a new building where the Bridge Street Cafe was more than a decade ago, Chumley’s was opened in May by owners Jordan and Julie Hitch, with a kitchen run by chef Troy Ragsdale and his wife, Cadena Ragsdale.
My wife, Becca, and I first stopped in a month or so ago after taking our own aging pup, Joy, for a walk on a nearby DNRT trail. It’s hard to miss with its red awnings and curious name.
Inside is a bright, clean, minimalist design with tall ceilings and a few touches of color, like the red factory lamps that add to the industrial theme. It feels a little like a Chipotle, but without all the ribbed metalwork, and doesn’t quite match the quaint seaside feel of Padanaram.
On your right is an ordering counter front of an open kitchen, with a chalkboard menu perched on a side wall. The dining room features three booths along one side, a large family-style table in the middle, a long counter along the windows with seating for a dozen and a front patio with another nine tables. My sister noted that the metal stools can be cold to sit on, although the rest of weren’t fazed.
On our first visit, I was blown away by the Jack burger (smoked bacon, house-made slaw, house barbecue sauce and Colby jack cheese on a toasted brioche bun for $8.50).
It’s the second-best burger I’ve had in the area, behind DnB Burgers in New Bedford. A big reason why is the beef itself. The 100 percent angus beef from Niman Ranch, which sources from small, family ranches in the midwest and Pacific Northwest. The pasture-grazed cattle are fed a 100 percent vegetarian diet with no antibiotics or hormones, and are humanely transported.
The beef is succulent, coating your mouth with its wonderful beefy fat. The brioche bun is delicately light and fluffy, and the combination of the sweet-and-tangy barbecue sauce and the peppery creaminess of the slaw played off the smokiness of the thick-cut crispy bacon.
Spurred on by the memories of this delicious burger, we filled the car with the three family dogs — Joy was joined by her Corgi cousins — and headed to South Dartmouth for a walk and a bite. (Side note: The causeway being out is no fun. My mom was coming from Black Friday shopping near the mall and her GPS didn’t realize the closure. She waved at us forlornly from The Bucket before driving around).
The five us — Becca and I, my sister and my parents — arrived around 1 p.m. the day after Thanksgiving to a moderately busy dining room. My father ordered the burger of the day, a bacon blue burger (with caramelized onions, lettuce and tomato for $9). The food was delivered quickly on small metal trays with the burgers stuffed in paper. He said it was the perfect portion size, with nice chunks of blue cheese, a moist medium-rare patty and perfectly cooked onions that were still warm. His only complaint was the buttered bun became slippery, making it hard to get a solid grip.
My sister went for the Chumley Dog (Niman Ranch hot dog with pickle, cucumber, red pepper relish and onions on a massive toasted bun for $8). The hot dog was split and grilled in the middle, giving it extra crust. The sweet red pepper relish and the crunch of the cucumber provided a blast of freshness. She only wished the bun was a little smaller, as it dwarfed the hot dog itself.
My wife went for the Rancher Burger (bacon, lettuce, tomato and ranch dressing for $7.5) on a bed of lettuce, which turned out to be a leaf of bib lettuce, not a pile of shredded iceburg as she’s gotten elsewhere. Her first visit she’d tried the Chumley burger with one patty (it normally comes with two patties, lettuce, tomato, caramelized onions, brie cheese and pesto aioli for $12).
My mom went for the Jack burger, without sauce, and said she didn’t miss it thanks to the creamy coleslaw and the natural juiciness of the burger. My family is one of those that shares everything, and after everything had been passed around, it was universally accepted the burgers were the highlight. While they aren’t large, about a quarter of a pound, you can “double down” and add a second patty for $3 more.
Despite not being able to stop thinking about the Jack burger, I opted for the fish and chips, served with caper-dill tarter sauce and house slaw. As a special on this day, it also came with fries, and I could choose between the small ($12) and large ($15). The large was more than I could have eaten alone, with two large pieces of flaky, moist local cod fried to a golden brown and laid over a bed of extremely crunchy and lightly salted fries. The fish was so flaky, though, it was hard to pick up with a fork, and nearly impossible to dip in the delicious tarter sauce, which may have been the best thing I ate all day.
We added a side order of sweet potato fries ($3.75), which were crispy on the outside and fluffy inside and sprinkled with large chunks of coarse sea salt. There are no fountain drinks, but they offer a selection of bottled soda, juice and teas ($2-$3.50), Jim’s Organic Coffee and a small selection of beer and wine, including a couple offerings from the Down Road Beer Company in Williamsburg. They do offer free ice water in large plastic cups.
The menu also offers a large selection of salads (the Yard Clippings stood out — mesclun mix with fresh parsley, fresh figs, roasted beets, goat cheese and a housemade lemon vinaigrette for $11, add chicken for $4), chicken sandwiches, lobster rolls and a veggie burger (southwestern black bean and sweet potato with cilantro lime, mayo, lettuce, tomato and avocado for $10). There’s a small breakfast menu on the weekends.
Our check came to $62.33 after tax, for lunch, so it’s not the cheapest place. A burger, regular order of fries and a bottle of iced tea will put you at about $15, although you can add a can of soda and a half-order of fries to any meal for $3.
What stands out about Chumley’s is the care they take in sourcing local, fresh ingredients and pairing them with interesting flavor combinations. It has a lot to offer, but at its soul, it seems destined to be an elite burger joint.
Dine Out's reviewer visits restaurants unannounced and at his or her discretion. The Standard-Times pays for the meals reviewed. The reviews merely reflect one diner's experience. Ratings range from 1 to 5 stars.
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