New Ebay Artwork Listings for the New Year

A lot of people have told us that 2012 is the year that is going to put the new back into New Year.  So, in the spirit of helping you all achieve the decoupage design success you have been building inside your uniquely sticky selves, we are busy uploading our favorite art from the decoupage studio of Durwin Rice.  

And, that includes selections from Durwin's Antique Prints inexpensive Reproductions that are ready for you to cut and paste!

Visit the Durwin Rice Gallery Ebay Store today and experience some really Happy Cutting!

Keep in mind, too, that all purchases from the store that total $25.00 or more ship FREE!  Just saying...don't miss out now on something that you really need to have

The Uncommon Wood Bench

Discover Vintage America

How To from the book New Decoupage...Page 64

PART TWO -- Small Stuff
Decorative Accessories and Objets d'art

Small decoupage pieces are important for two really good reasons.  First, it's easier to practice your decoupage skills on something small.  Second, small stuff is significant--decorative accessories are an essential part of any room interior, unless of course you're a minimalist, and who the heck is a minimalist?  Do you know a minimalist?  Or perhaps I should ask, do you know a happy minimalist?  Objets d'art are great to have.  Collect them, store them, rearrange them, pack and unpack them on a dull winter night--it's one fetish I support.  And if you still don't have enough of them (objets d'art, that is), New Decoupage is the ticket to many, many more.
     The small projects found here are a nod to the traditional world of decoupage, but even here I've played around with tradition until it met my needs; you can too.  I'm not bad-mouthing tradition:  Many of the objects created in my studio are, in fact, very traditional.  Images from classical artists like Watteau and Fragonard abound.  So do images of old Scottish golfers putting around St. Andrews, Napoleon on his charger, Versailles costume balls, and our Blessed Lady surrounded by the heavenly host.  And while all are beautiful, they certainly aren't the limit to what you can do.
     Check out the photograph above.  It combines the cartoon world of Walt Disney with some good old American cheesecake (yes, that's really Debbie Reynolds on the fingertip of Prince Charming).  And what's wrong with that?  Be it traditional or scandalous, the only limit is your imagination and your sense of what your friends and relatives will find humorous, engaging, ridiculous, offensive, silly, or profound.
     I've ranked the difficulty of the projects that follow by their order of appearance.  The easiest come first, while the subsequent projects are more complex.  So read though them in order.  We'll both be glad that you did.

                                Next -- Step by Step Decoupage Plates

How To from the book New Decoupage...Page 59

Oil-Based Polyurethane.
     Applying oil-based polyurethane is exactly the same as applying acrylic-based polyurethane, but don't store it with a sponge brush in any plastic containers.  It will simply eat through your brush.  And, if you use it, you must open a window.  The fumes are harmful.  So why use the oil-based product at all, you ask?  The finish it provides is different.  It's shinier and smoother than that of even the best high-gloss acrylic.  But when using it, follow the rules:  Open the windows, work fast, and then leave the room while it dries.  Better yet, use oil-based polyurethane outside.  And while it's drying, walk around the block to your neighborhood restaurant and order a frosty vodka  martini--stirred, not shaken.

Curing
     Once you've sealed your work with polyurethane, you must not only let the sealant dry completely, but also let it cure.  This takes longer than you think.  A polyurethane finish will dry to the touch in just a few hours, but just because it's dry doesn't mean it's cured.  Check the label.  Some brands take days, even weeks, to cure.  Oil-based products take a lot longer to cure than acrylic-based products.  Until your creation is completely cured. don't attempt using it for any purpose other than decorative.  Put it up on a shelf and admire it.

Caring for the Finish
     Think of your polyurethaned piece as you think of a wood coffee table.  Use coasters with it, clean up spills, and wipe the piece dry;  never let water or any liquid sit directly on the finish.  When it gets dusty, polish the piece with furniture polish.  If you don't treat your coffee table that well, give this book to a friend and become an ice hockey player.


On Your Mark, Get Set, Go!
   Now that you understand the basics, it's time to decoupage.  Parts II and III contain a range of projects, from small decorative accents to whole walls and ceilings.  Once you've mastered a few of these, you may be dreaming up your own New Decoupage ideas faster than the glue dries on your last project.

                                                                Tomorrow -- The Decoupage Plate

How To from the book New Decoupage...Page 58

Applying Polyurethane

     Acrylic-Based Polyurethane.  I've found the best way to apply acrylic-based polyurethane is to use an inexpensive disposable sponge brush, which costs less than a buck at the local hardware store.  Select a brush size based on the size of your project; a 1/2-inch brush is fine for a plate; a 2 1/2-inch brush is better for a piece of furniture.
     To begin the process of applying acrylic-based polyurethane, order Chinese food, primarily dishes like egg-drop soup, each of which will be delivered in a tall plastic container with a lid.  Eat the soup.  Clean out the container:  Store the acrylic-based polyurethane in the container.  Why?  Because unless you're very careful in opening the metal can of sealer that comes from the paint store, you'll probably damage the lid, making it difficult to reseal the can.  Air gets in and the polyurethane gets gooky.  So store what you need in egg-drop soup containers or other inexpensive plastic containers.  It's okay to leave your bush in the container with the polyurethane.  If you do, you're ready to polyurethane at all times--no searching for the brush, which you never have to clean.  Keep the lid on when you aren't using the sealer.  But if you want to clean the brush, acrylic polyurethane is water soluble; all you have to do is rinse the brush thoroughly with water.
     When applying acrylic polyurethane, remember James Bond.  He drank his vodka martinis stirred, not shaken.  Acrylic-based polyurethanes should always be stirred, not shaken--shaking creates air bubbles.  After stirring, brush the sealer on slowly and evenly, preferably while listening to a Haydn string quartet.
     Manufacturers of both oil and acrylic polyurethanes will tell you to sand between every coat and to use an expensive china bristle brush for the best finish.  But I like to apply two initial coats of acrylic polyurethane to make sure that the paper images are completely covered.  If you attempt to sand after the first coat you will occasionally sand into the paper images.  So, first two coats of acrylic, then sand lightly with Grade 400 sandpaper (this sanding will remove any dust particles or dog hairs that have settled onto the finish as it is drying and is also useful to even the polyurethane finish), then a coat of oil-based polyurethane, then sand with Grade 400 paper, then a finishing coat of oil-based poly.  A tack cloth is very effective at removing the sanding "dust" but a damp sponge does a decent enough job, too.  I don't always have a tack cloth ready.  I always have a damp sponge at the kitchen sink.  But be careful.  Once you've used your kitchen sponge as a tack cloth, it's not a good idea to continue using it on your dishes; make it a part of your decoupage tool box instead.  And I get more than acceptable results using a 1-inch sponge brush.  Sure, you should always read the manufacturer's instructions for whatever information you can learn about how their product is supposed to behave, but to slavishly follow those instructions isn't always required.  There's always an ideal way to do things, but I think the New Decoupage message is "this works, too" and it's not so expensive and it's a  heck of a lot easier.  Namely, something that you can accomplish.

          Even  more about polyurethanes and finishing techniques tomorrow.

How To from the book New Decoupage...Page 56

The Finality of Finishing:  PRESERVING YOUR PLACE IN HISTORY

     Sealing a work of decoupage with polyurethane protects it from scratches, dust, and oxidation.  It can also give your work a high-sheen finish and, if you use several coats, even lend depth to the finished piece.  But sealing is not always necessary; in fact, many times you will want to leave a work unsealed because a sealant would unwantedly alter the look of the piece.  The finish of any sealer--be it matte, semigloss, or high gloss--will bring its own sheen, as will the amber tones of varnishes and shellacs. In addition, absorbent papers can soak up sealant and, as a result, actually change color right before your eyes.  You might be lucky and really like the new color, or it might make you sick.
     When deciding whether to seal a piece, first consider its end use.  Is your tray intended to bear the burden of Cousin Ida's gin and tonics or is it merely going to hang on the wall?  If it's going to get used, it needs to get sealed; serving trays, footstools, furniture, floors, refrigerators, cabinets, and other such things should be sealed.
     Next, consider the aesthetic quality of your work of art, because, as noted, any sealer will import a specific look.  If you've got a cachepot that's just going to sit on the mantle and you like the natural finish of the handmade papers you used, why muck it up with polyurethane?   On the other hand, you might have antique on the brain, and a coat or two of amber-colored shellac would instantly age the piece.  Be sure to experiment, since different sealants provide different sheens and color characteristics.  In general, oil-based products ten to turn golden and mellow with multiple coats and age (unlike your spouse).  Acrylic sealants dry clear and are not expected to darken over time.  I say "expected" because they haven't been on the market for a real long time and I'm from Missouri, the "Show Me" state.
     Old Decoupage was sealant happy.  In some cases, thirty to forty coats were recommended for one small project.  I've met some frustrated decoupeurs who are still trying to do this--in tiny work spaces, windows sealed.  The fumes from all that sealant could account for their obsession with so many coats, just a case of old-fashioned brain fry.
     Even for those eternally committed to protecting their decoupage creation, thirty coats is downright loony, twenty coats is overdoing it, and even ten coats will get you bumped from my dinner invitation list.  You want to protect your work from scratches--not Hurricane Andrew, cosmic radiation, or the Ebola virus.
     In my opinion, a sealant overdose leaves your creation heavy and ugly.  In my studio the only time we apply more than two coats of an acrylic-based polyurethane is when we have numerous layers of paper, over which coats of sealant will help you level the surface, or if we expect the piece to be very heavily used.  If you decide to apply a third coat, sand the second coat lightly with a Grade 400 sandpaper.  Then wipe the sanded surface with a water-dampened sponge or tack cloth before applying the third coat.
     My thinking is this:  If two or three coats of polyurethane will protect a floor in a new house (and that is the number many manufacturers recommend), you don't need many more to protect a floral tray;  I don't care who you're inviting to tea.
     For the purpose of New Decoupage, I use acrylic- and oil-based polyurethanes almost exclusively.  I rarely use shellac or varnish as they're yellow to begin with and the color only deepens with age.  They are also messy if the humidity is high and can take forever to dry.  And forget lacquer--this is the new age and this is New Decoupage.
     Polyurethane is available in two liquid forms: oil- and acrylic-based.  Each is available in a formulation to provide a gloss, semi-gloss, or matte finish.  Whatever you do, don't mix an oil-based polyurethane with an acrylic-based polyurethane.  It's like mixing oil and water.  Stick with one kind, at least until the finish is dry.
     Acrylic-based polyurethane always dries clear and hard, even though it looks milky in the can and when first applied.  As I mentioned, too many coats of an oil-based polyurethane imparts a mellow, golden tinge to finished work.  Some people like the look, but I usually don't.
     If I decide on a high-gloss, protective finish, my rule of thumb is this:  Begin with two coats of acrylic polyurethane.  Us additional coats whenever multiple layers of paper will benefit from the leveling effect of several coats.  Finish with one or two coats of high-gloss oil-based polyurethane.  The shine is better and the finish is beautifully smooth.  Two coats, even three, will not cause serious yellowing.
     One of the neat things about polyurethane is that the sheen of the last coat you apply is the effect you get.  So why not start out with a high-gloss polyurethane for the first coat.  See if you like it.  If you don't, use semi-gloss for the second coat.  When it dries, you'll have a semi-gloss finish.  If that's not your facy, go right on to a coat of the matte finish; it's the last coat that counts.  Because brands vary, follow the manufacturer's recommendation about drying time.

How To from the book New Decoupage...Page 55

Adhering Images to the Top of a Surface

1.  Relax the paper in a bowl or basin of warm water until it is saturated, following the instructions on page 50.  While the paper is relaxing, spread your adhesive mixture evenly onto the surface with a sponge brush.  Use your hands if your only brush has just htis moment fallen behind the refrigerator.

2.  Remove the paper from the water and wait 10 to 15 seconds for the excess water to drip off before placing it into position.

3.  Now smooth the paper flat with either a brayer or the pads of your fingers.  Fingers and brayers should be wet with water and glue so they won't stick to the paper.

4.  Once you've got the paper smooth and into position, clean away the excess adhesive carefully with a damp sponge.  It's okay to use the sponge to remove excess adhesive from the paper but be careful not to apply too much pressure.  A light film of adhesive is okay to leave behind.  Once the paper has dried, this excess adhesive might appear cloudy, but the polyurethane finish will return it to clear.

5.  After allowing your project to dry thoroughly, apply two coats of an acrylic polyurethane with a 1" sponge brush following the manufacturer's instructions.  Let dry.

How To from the book New Decoupage...Page 53

 

<<--Previous Post - Page 51

13.  Put your work in a frame and hang it up for all to see.

     There are two important things to remember when gluing under glass.  First, when working the paper into place and removing air bubbles, don't press too hard or you may permanently damage your work, and I don't mean only tearing the image, although that may happen.  Excessive pressure can also remove too much glue.  The glue-less areas will be shiny streaks between the glass and the image.  These streaks are especially offensive when you look at the piece on the oblique.  So leave hard bubble pushers--like credit cards, spoons, and your fingernails--out of this.  Use only the pads of your fingers, and keep your touch firm but light.
     Second, don't use a wet sponge to clean up extra glue; use a damp sponge.  If a wet sponge touches the edges of the paper image, water might seep in between glass and image causing unsightly channels to appear after the work dries.  Just in case that happens, a good thing to have on hand is a piece of swimmer's towel  If you've never seen one, ask any kid who swims.  He or she is likely to display a bunch in designer colors.  They look to me like colorized, synthetic versions of the chamois we used to use to dry our Chevrolets.  Use either a piece of swimmer's towel or a chamois to soak up excess water.
     Gluing under clear glass is much easier than most people think.  My advice to you is to experiment and learn from your mistakes and successes.  Choose and use products that work well for you.  If you simply apply yourself to the task at hand and are willing to risk some minor failures at first, your continued efforts will pay off.

Adhering Images to the Top of a Surface

It took me years to figure out what's shown on these next two pages.  Ever since I got my first paste-pot, I've been collecting information on how to glue something perfectly onto the top of an object (and I'll be you have too) so no doubt it's tempting to think we know all there is to know about this aspect of decoupage.  But hold on--if you take a few minutes to study this lesson carefully, you just might learn something.  So pick up your scissors, some wrapping paper, an old mustard jar, some Elmer's, and your brayer, and take it all to your kitchen sink.  It's going to take about 5 minutes and make the rest of your decoupage career a lot easier, and that's a heck of a good thing.

                                  Next Post -- Pages 54-55

How To from the book New Decoupage...Page 51

<<--Previous Post  - Page 50
4.  Pick up the image.  It's not only okay to have glue on your fingers when you pick it up, it's helpful.  Carefully drop the image, face down into place.  When the glue is dry and you look through the glass from the front, you should see the front of the image.

5.  Add sufficient glue to cover the back of the image and flip the glass so that you are looking at the front.

6.  Gently distribute the glue over the back of the image by using the pads of your fingers--never use your nails, lest you rip the image.  Work out from the center, forcing out any pockets of air.

7.  Once the air bubbles are gone, stop; don't risk tearing the image.   Don't worry about leaving too much glue between the glass and the image, because it will dry clear.  In fact, the more glue you work with, the easier it will be to get rid of the bubbles.  Trust me.

8.  Once you've got all your images in place, wipe up some of the excess glue with a water-dampened (not saturated or wet) sponge.  Be careful not to disturb your images; wipe around them.  It's okay to leave behind a thin film of glue, both on the glass and the backside of the image.  Now rest the glass face down on the top of the coffee can (the plastic lid will prevent scratches on the glass).

9.  After the glue is completely dry (this could happen within an hour if your paper is thin and it's not a humid day, or it might take overnight if you're using a heavier paper on a rainy day--you'll know because the white glue will have turned crystal clear) you are now ready to choose a background.  You might create a collage with several images, or just choose a nice wrapping paper to cover the entire back.  Clean away the rest of the glue with a glass cleaner and paper towels so you can see what you're doing.  Then hold the glass in front of various papers and decide what is going to look best.

10.  Using the glass pane as your guide, cut the background wrapping paper to the exact size needed with an Olfa or Exacto knife.

11.  Using the gluing techniques you mastered in steps 2 through 7, apply the background paper and get rid of the air bubbles.

12.  Clean away excess glue from the front of the glass before you put it face down to dry on the coffee can.


                    Next Post - Pages 52-53 -->>

How To from the book New Decoupage...Page 50

Basic Gluing Techniques:  TWO LESSONS

     Whether you've read the previous pages or not, whether you've been sent back to this page because you got yourself into a jam and really screwed up your sister's dining room table, or whether this book just dropped into your lap open at this page is not the issue.  No matter how you got here, the issue is that this is the most important section in this book.
     If you want to be a decoupeur, if you already are a decoupeur, if you just want to understand your friend who calls himself a decoupeur, if you hate decoupage and are looking for arguments for it not to exist, if you are married to a decoupeur and are serious about salvaging your relationship, or if you just merely don't want to regret buying this book...Read this chapter very carefully.  It contains all the information you need to do just about anything in the realm of decoupage.
     This section presents two basic lessons:  gluing beneath glass and gluing on top of a surface.  If you don't have the patience to read both of them very carefully, give up decoupage and watch some more television.

Gluing Beneath Glass
     For this lesson you'll need a 5 x 7" pane of clear glass (available inexpensively at your local crafts store), PVA adhesive, your images, a damp cellulose sponge, and a coffee can with a plastic lid.   In addition, you may need a basin of water (see Step 3) and a swimmer's towel or chamois.

1.  Begin by sanding the edges of the glass.  Use an 80 or 100 grade paper, or whatever you've got in the drawer.  You're not aiming for a perfectly smooth surface, just taking some precautions.

2.  Once you're satisfied that you aren't going to cut yourself, make certain that the glass is also clean.  Now spread a lot of glue evenly onto the glass.  Use about as much as you could hold in your cupped palm.  Yes, that much.  And no, I'm not being paid by the makers of Elmer's (although that's what I recommend you use).

3.  You must add an extra step that I call relaxing (and it has nothing to do with soaking in the tub) if you are dealing with an image that has colored ink on both sides of the paper.  Actually, it is about soaking, but instead of soaking yourself, you are going to soak your paper images in a basin of water.  This saturates the fibers in the paper with moisture, relaxing them to the point that they won't "fight" when they contact the PVA.  PVA likes to be in charge and if your paper fibers are relaxed it will have an easier time doing its job correctly, helping you achieve a smooth finish.  The saturation point occurs at the moment the paper stops curling in the water and floats freely without wrinkles.  But don't leave the image in the basin of water for too long or the water will relax not only the paper but the ink as well, ruining the image.  Have extra copies on the image standing by, just in case.

                                                  Next Post - Page 51 -->>

Decorative Italian Gift Wrap Papers Selection

19.5" x 28" Sheets - $2.99 each

Choose From 30 Florentine Paper Designs in One Buy It Now Listing 

Don't Sneer At Veneer

It's the launch of a new design column I've been asked to write called The Artistic Antique for Discover Vintage America.  Have you got a waterfall gem of your own at home?

Recommend A Favorite Book For Friends To Cut

Decoupage is mostly about sharing something beautiful with the world.

Cut.  Paste.  Ta Da!

So, I've been told repeatedly that it's about time to recreate a favorite page from the DurwinRice.com website....

Recommended Books to Cut Up

Because, as decoupage artists, we're only as good as our art.

Have you got a favorite book or paper art resource to recommend?

New Decoupage Kitchens Redux

"Every Monday we post a recently built, remodeled or redecorated home with commentary from the designer." 

That's the story from the Pro Portfolio column at the LA Times. Just two weeks ago they featured my friend Jonathan Fong whose condo features a lot of decoupage (of course).

Decoupage, I might add, with some insouciant style!

Some of you have already seen Jonathan's New Decoupage inspired kitchen but here's a chance to see some more detail of the inside of his crazy fun condo!  Take a look and see if you don't get inspired yourself.

And then, what's stopping you from submitting your own creative genius to the design editors in California?  Every Monday they are ready to publish something beautiful and so, they've included an email link at the bottom of this column ready to accept your submissions.  400 words (or less) plus some low resolution photography.

So GO get your glue fingers busy and submit something soon!

Jonathan Fong's Kitchen and Condo

Explaining an Arts NonProfit

Here's a very funny and to the point video produced by Krista Blackwood, musical director of the Kansas City based choral ensemble Octarium.

We are looking forward here in KC to next Sunday's (December 12th) Lessons and Carols featuring Octarium at St. Mark Lutheran Church (3800 Troost Avenue). It's a benefit sponsored by Tulips on Troost to support the Friends of St. Mark and neighborhood revitalization.

Today's Collage

Van Gogh meets General Electric in today's collage (which required only some minor rearranging of the painting).  What are you cutting today?

What's Your Color Score?

Here's a fun test to tell how well your eyes see color.  I scored a lousy 27.  But after I got categorized by age and gender, I felt much better about my score.

What's your score?   Take the Test Here

Valerie Keane Amazes Me

Now and then, when a customer repeatedly purchases a product, I get curious about what they are creating.  At least this was the case with Valerie Keane who emailed me recently for a rather large quantity of my preferred decoupage finish.  But, when Valerie sent the image that you see above, my first response was to email back..."are you certain that you sent a pic of the backside of the plate???"

Yes, all my favorite clipettes, what you are viewing there is the side of Valerie's plate that faces the wall!

It's very sweet of Valerie to give our varnish the tiniest, wee bit of credit for it's little contribution to the backside of her plate.  But really...

Speechless.

Join The Online Yahoo Conversation

YAHOO MESSENGER

It's easy to download at Yahoo Messenger.

Next add durwinriceontroostavenue to your friends list.  (That's us.)

Then talk, talk, talk about your decoupage adventures.  We're not always here but then, we're here a lot!

Happy Cutting

Avoiding Lumps and Bumps Under Glass

Anonymous asked: "Howdy.......how can I avoid lumps and bumps from the paper bunching up around curves under glass?"

Armed with a little knowledge about glue under glass, suddenly we are talking about how to make paper (which is flat) mold itself to a glass under-surface that is NOT flat.

 

Darts.

Yes, darts.  If  you're making anything with fabric that needs to shape around a curved mother-in-law, you never think twice unless, of course, you think twice about how many darts you are going to have to cut to create the garment to fit the creature.

Paper is just a bit more tensile that fabric.  So, cut darts where you need them.  Hide them miraculously along the lines of leaves or a flower petal or some other line in your artwork that will overlap whatever is next to it.

And, use a little extra glue.  It helps fill in the space between the curved glass and the flat paper.

You can also deal with the "overlaps" by simply cutting and using smaller pieces of artwork as in this project demonstration by Kjara.